Big fan-shaped ears, a gently curved trunk, and four stubby legs — a soft grey elephant sized to sit happily on a shelf or in a small pair of hands.
Updated 2026 · US terms · About 6.5in / 16.5cm tall
An elephant was the first amigurumi animal I ever attempted that wasn't a simple ball with limbs, and I remember being genuinely surprised by how much personality the ears alone could carry. I'd made the head and body exactly to plan, sewn on two ears cut from the same pattern, and the elephant went from "vaguely animal-shaped blob" to unmistakably an elephant the moment the second ear went on. Nothing else in the pattern does that much work for that little effort.
This elephant keeps the construction genuinely simple: the head, body, and four legs use the same basic amigurumi shaping you'd find in any beginner pattern, and the trunk is just a small tapered tube. The only part that takes a little extra care is the ears, which are worked flat and pinched into shape rather than stuffed, so they hang with a soft, floppy droop instead of standing up stiffly.
Below is the full pattern in US terms, along with notes on getting that floppy ear shape right, curving the trunk naturally, and the small mistakes that make an elephant look lopsided rather than charming. If you haven't worked amigurumi before, our amigurumi for beginners guide covers the basics first.
Toy safety note: for children under 3, or any child who still mouths toys, embroider the eyes with yarn instead of using plastic safety eyes. Securely fasten and reinforce the trunk, ears, and legs, since these are all small attached parts. Adult supervision is recommended for young children with any small-parts toy. See our guide to attaching safety eyes for more detail.
Materials
1–2 skeins worsted-weight yarn in grey, about 90–110 yards
3.5mm hook (smaller than standard, for tight amigurumi stitches)
Polyester fiberfill stuffing
Safety eyes, or embroidery thread for a child-safe embroidered face
Gauge isn't critical here — the goal is tight, even stitches that keep the stuffing from showing through. If you can see stuffing between your stitches, size down your hook.
Notes
Written in US terms, worked in a continuous spiral without joining, the same basic technique as our mini amigurumi ball pattern.
Made from nine separate pieces (head, body, trunk, 2 ears, 4 legs) sewn together at the end.
The ears are worked flat as unstuffed discs and pinched when sewn on, which is what gives them their floppy shape rather than a stiff, round look.
Sc every st around for 3 rounds. (18 sts each round)
Body, Rounds 7–8
[sc 1, dec] around. (12) → Dec around, stuffing as you close. (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head.
Trunk
Magic ring, 5 sc. (5). Sc every st around for 6 rounds, no shaping. Stuff lightly, only enough to give it a little body while keeping it flexible. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff; the ear stays as a flat disc.
Legs (make 4)
Magic ring, 5 sc. (5). Sc every st around for 3 rounds. Stuff lightly. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Assembly
Sew the body to the bottom of the head using the tails from each. Sew the trunk to the center of the face, just below where the eyes will sit, curving it gently downward rather than sewing it on straight. Sew the two ears to the sides of the head, pinching a small fold at the top attachment edge as you stitch so the ear droops rather than standing flat. Sew all four legs to the bottom of the body, spacing them evenly so the elephant can stand or sit securely. Attach safety eyes before stuffing the head if using them, or embroider a simple face with yarn once assembly is complete for a child-safe alternative.
Getting the ears right
The ears are the single detail that makes this pattern read as an elephant rather than a generic animal, so it's worth taking a little extra time on them. Working the ear as a flat, unstuffed disc rather than a closed, stuffed shape is what allows it to fold and drape naturally once it's sewn on; a stuffed ear would sit stiff and round instead. When you attach each ear, don't sew it on completely flat — gather a small pinch of the top edge together before your first stitch, then continue sewing around the rest of the circle as usual. That single pinch is what creates the folded, floppy silhouette you can see in the photo.
If your ears come out looking too small relative to the head, it's usually because the increase rounds were skipped or miscounted; each of the four ear rounds should add exactly 6 stitches, ending at 24 total. Counting stitches at the end of each round, rather than only at the end of the piece, catches this early.
Color and yarn variations
A soft grey is the most true-to-life elephant color and photographs beautifully against a neutral blanket or shelf, but this pattern works just as well in a pastel like dusty blue or blush pink for a nursery-friendly version, or in a bold color if you're making it as a fun rather than realistic toy. If you'd like a two-tone look, work the inside of each ear in a contrasting light color; since the ear is a flat disc worked from the center out, you can simply change color partway through the increase rounds to create a ringed effect, or work a separate smaller disc in the contrast color and stitch it to the center of each ear afterward. Our guide to the best yarn for amigurumi covers which fibers hold stitch definition best if you're choosing yarn for the first time.
Sizing up or down
To make a larger elephant, add one more increase round to both the head and body before their straight rounds, and one more decrease round at the end of each; lengthen the trunk and legs by a round or two so the proportions stay balanced, and add one extra increase round to the ears so they scale up to match the bigger head. For a smaller elephant, do the reverse: stop the increase rounds one round earlier everywhere, and shorten the straight rounds slightly.
Elephant-specific trouble spots
Mistake: the ears come out stiff and flat instead of soft and floppy.
Fix: leave the ears unstuffed, and pinch a small fold at the top attachment edge before sewing them on rather than stitching the flat disc down as-is.
Mistake: the trunk sticks out stiffly instead of curving downward.
Fix: stuff the trunk lightly rather than firmly, and sew it on with a deliberate downward curve rather than straight out from the face.
Mistake: the four legs are different lengths, so the elephant doesn't sit level.
Fix: lay all four legs flat side by side before sewing any of them on, and trim stuffing or add a round to whichever legs are shorter so they match before attaching.
Mistake: the ears end up sewn at uneven heights or angles.
Fix: mark the intended position of both ears with a scrap of contrasting yarn before sewing either one, checking placement from directly above the head so both sides match.
Mistake: safety eyes end up spaced too far apart or too close together once inserted.
Fix: insert the eye posts but don't lock the backings on yet — hold the head up and check the spacing looks right from a normal viewing distance before securing them permanently.
Our pick
Stuffing
Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Fiber Fill, 32oz
Enough for this elephant and future amigurumi projects, staying fluffy without clumping over time.
Is this amigurumi elephant pattern safe for young children?
For children under 3, or any child who still mouths toys, embroider the eyes with yarn instead of using plastic safety eyes, and securely fasten and reinforce the trunk, ears, and legs, since these are all small attached parts that carry a choking risk if they come loose. Adult supervision is recommended for young children with any small-parts toy. See our guide to attaching safety eyes for more detail.
How long does this amigurumi elephant take to make?
Between the head, body, trunk, two ears, and four legs, most confident beginners finish this elephant over three to four sessions, roughly 4 to 5 hours of crochet time plus assembly and sewing.
How do I make the elephant's ears look floppy instead of stiff?
Leave the ears unstuffed and work them as flat discs rather than closed rounds. When sewing each ear to the head, pinch a small fold at the top attachment edge before stitching it down; that fold is what gives the ear its soft, floppy droop rather than a stiff, flat look.
How do I attach the trunk so it curves naturally?
Stuff the trunk lightly rather than firmly, so it keeps some flexibility, and sew it to the center of the face with a gentle downward curve rather than sewing it on perfectly straight. A very lightly stuffed trunk will naturally droop into a soft curve once attached.
What's the best stuffing for an amigurumi elephant?
Polyester fiberfill is the standard choice for amigurumi because it stays soft, keeps its shape, and is washable and hypoallergenic, unlike natural fiber stuffing that can clump or felt with handling over time.
Can I make the elephant bigger or smaller?
Yes. To scale it up, add one more increase round to the head and body before the straight rounds and one more decrease round at the end, and lengthen the trunk and legs by a round or two each to keep proportions balanced. For a smaller elephant, do the reverse.
Why does my elephant's head look bigger on one side?
This is almost always uneven stuffing or off-center ear and trunk placement. Stuff the head in small, even pieces as you go rather than all at once at the end, and before sewing anything on, lay the head flat and check ear and trunk placement from directly above so both sides match.
Nora has been teaching crochet for 12 years, from absolute beginners to people coming back to the craft after decades away. She started CrochetGuides to write the clear, honest instructions she wishes she'd had when she was learning — the ones that actually work the first time.
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